Surfing is a gift for the body and the mind. But it’s not an easy sport to learn. Why is surfing so addictive? 20 surfers from New Zealand, Italy, Germany, Netherlands, Japan and Portugal share their reasons for surfing:
I surf to clear my mind.
I love surfing because it reminds me that I am such a small spec of dust in a big wide world and that helps me put things in perspective.
Surfing has improved my mental health. When I surf I challenge myself to keep going and stay calm and that’s hard in the water when scary big waves are coming at you or you’re frustrated with yourself for not catching any that day. Mostly though I love surfing because the ocean is my happy place. And surfing allows me to feel like I can be part of it.
I surf for exercise, meditation, the lifestyle, connection to water as an element.
I surf for being in the water with my back towards the shore, nothing else in the world matters except the waves approaching.
To me it’s the connection with nature, riding natural energy. Waiting for a set is an opportunity to observe my surroundings. To me surfing is a form of meditation, an escape, everything makes sense with salty hair.
I surf for the adrenaline of catching a wave perfectly.
I surf because I am me in the water, there is no pretending, you are just yourself. The ocean knows your nature.
Everyone is unique. And everyone has a unique relationship with moans. The best feeling is just being on a wave, in flow with the ocean and life.
I surf to play like a little kid.
I surf to be in the moment. No need to think about anything else. I love the energy it gives me, I get hyper and stupidly happy after a good session.
I surf for the freedom.
I surf to escape out of my mind and into my body. I actually love getting rolled up and spat out by a wave. It’s such a good reminder of the power of nature. And that I’m just one small and temporary part of this wild and crazy universe.
Sometimes I love surfing with the amazing surfers that I know. And sometimes I love to sit quietly by myself and just watch the water soak it all in. It’s the best way for me to reset my mindset and reconnect with myself.
I surf to connect with nature and myself.
I surf for the people. The surfing community in Bream Bay is epic. We have a great posse in Waipu Cove. Lot’s of old boys in their 70s till charging. Lot’s of like-minded people, chilled, happy go lucky and appreciate the simple things in life.
I surf for the feeling.
I have just started learning surfing. It was something I always wanted to learn and put on hold because I became a mum. Then I lost myself in motherhood. I forgot what it was that made just me happy. The first time I stood up on my board, I felt completely myself again.
I surf for me-time, for clarity, for self-care. The giddiness after a good surf is second to none.
I surf to make myself happy and calm.
I surf to be out there in the moment where life is still, you encounter a depth of inner love that is multiplied by the oceans and it’s beauty. Seeing the sets rolling in from out my back is this excitement of joy of lining yourself up to feel yourself in pure freedom while riding that wave.
I surf because no one wave is ever the same, it’s always this amazing fun challenge that is forever teaching you more and more about yourself and the power of Mother Nature.
I surf because it makes me feel relaxed and excited at the same time.
I surf because it makes you become more conscious, you forget about everything else in the world when you are in the water. Your awareness is heightened, feeling the water, the breeze, tasting the salt, and waiting for the next wave.
I surf for the espace, not being anything. Just me and the sea.
I surf because it’s one of the few things you can enjoy even though you are absolutely terrible at it! It’s not about getting better, never mind being the best, it’s just doing it for the sake of doing it.